Vr vcc temperature svid что это

HWinfo VR VCC TEMPERATURE

Hello. VR VCC Temp. (SVID) Under load and without it, the temperature shows 79-85, constantly. Is this a sensor bug? BIOS is default.

Dalai

Well-Known Member

• Apr 23, 2021

• #6

@day:
Looking at the motherboard layout, it doesn’t have any heatsinks on the VRMs. How is the airflow in your case, especially over the VRMs? Apart from that, the temperatures are probably fine, despite being on the higher side. And I don’t think this is a sensor bug.

New Member

• Apr 24, 2021

• #7

@day:
Looking at the motherboard layout, it doesn’t have any heatsinks on the VRMs. How is the airflow in your case, especially over the VRMs? Apart from that, the temperatures are probably fine, despite being on the higher side. And I don’t think this is a sensor bug.

Vr vcc temperature svid что это

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Question Overclocking voltage confusion

I am overclocking an i5 8600k to 4.9GHz on an Asrock Extreme4 mobo with fixed voltage of 1.34v set on BIOS.

While stress testing, the overclock was stable with Prime95 non-AVX small fft (passed at 1hr) and Realbench (passed at 8hrs), HWinFO64 shows that my max vcore under load was 1.312v constasnt with jumps to 1.328v at max LLC setting (level 1 for this mobo). Temperatures maxes at 90s degrees.

I want to know where this vdroop is coming from, and does that mean I’m stable at using 1.328v instead of 1.34v as set on the BIOS and can lower it more? Because I once had a BSOD on 1.335v set on BIOS while running RealBench stress test.

Another issue I came with is the difference between using fixed voltage and offset voltage. Why is that for this particular clock speed, stress test requires a 1.344v+ to run stable on an offset voltage setting (I went up to 60mV and still failed), while I am stable for fixed voltage with lower vcore?

Lutfij

Titan

• Apr 24, 2019

• #2

Which BIOS are you on? What is your aftermarket cooler? Better yet, might want to include your full specs like so:
CPU:
Motherboard:
Ram:
SSD/HDD:
GPU:
PSU:
Chassis:
OS:

and state what the airflow in your case is setup as. I personally think your voltages are high, if you’re using the BIOS(voltage) numbers as the baseline. You should use HWMonitor to help cross reference the voltage numbers.

skwok-raven

• Apr 24, 2019

• #3

BIOS version is P3.30 for AsRock mobo (think its the latest as I updated a few weeks ago).
The airflow in my case is set up with two Noctua NF-A14 chromax fans as intake on the front, and two Fractal Design Dynamic X2 GP-12 120mm stock fans (one at the back end, and one directly on top of the cooler — both as exhaust).

CPU: Intel i5 8600k
CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4
Motherboard: AsRock Z370 Extreme4
Ram: HyperX Fury 2x4GB 2400MHz DDR4
SSD: Samsung 850EVO 120GB for OS drive
HDD: ST3500620AS (I really don’t know the hdd, it’s really old from a computer ages back)
GPU: RTX 2080 ASUS Strix Advanced Edition
PSU: Corsair RM750x (2018)
Chassis: Fractal Design Meshify C
OS: Windows 10 Pro

I just don’t know if its a RealBench problem, but it seems that with offset setting, Realbench draws less voltage to run than Prime95. VID sometimes jump to 1.319 while the highest vcore with the offset setting stagnates at 1.3v12.

Karadjgne

Titan

• Apr 24, 2019

• #4

VID is the voltage the cpu tells the mobo VRM’s to supply. Vcore is the voltage that the cpu actually uses. Use offset at idle, not load voltages. For example: if your idle voltage is 1.256V and your VID is 1.3461, your Offset is -0.0901. Rounded by the 0.005V increment, it becomes 0.10V. So that is a negative offset, meaning you have to switch to the negative offset mode sign in order to subtract 0.10V from 1.3461V.

It is generally better to use the lowest setting for LLC that you can, especially when using offset. High settings for LLC can cause significant voltage overshoots when the load changes (how much that matters is open for debate) but more significantly, they can cause you to use too low an offset which results in crashes at idle or lightly loaded tasks. So lower LLC plus a slightly higher offset value is generally best.

Different apps can and will change voltages on the fly. RealBench is designed to do just that as it uses ram, cpu and gpu in different loads and amounts, which is what makes a stability tester. P95 isn’t as good at that since it’s loads are more static, especially small fft. And doesn’t punish the system as a whole, including usb/pcie subsystems, just the cpu mainly with some ram usage.

Make sure the motherboard chipset drivers are also current, Win10CE updates can have a field day with what it considers legacy/outdated/lower version number drivers.

The hdd is a Seagate Constellation ES.2, that’s an enterprise drive, pretty solid

skwok-raven

• Apr 25, 2019

• #5

Wouldn’t both vid and vcore be the same if its on idle? I tried it and cannot see a difference (also there’s too many things in the background causing quick jumps whereas under load its steady). I was under the impression that you want vcore to be above the VID so why a negative offset? Sorry I’m still quite confuse on this statement here.

While I agree on this part, Asrock’s LLC seems a bit different than ASUS or Gigabyte’s. Their highest level doesn’t seem strong and in fact doesnt overshoot as much (and seems to still have vdroop still even under stress testing). Their second highest (level 2) seems to have too much vdroop and as you said will require more increase in voltage (which I thought is what we want to have less of).

Karadjgne

Titan

• Apr 25, 2019

• #6

Voltage under loads almost always drops. You want vid and vcore to be pretty similar, within 0.05v if possible. With vid offset set very high, you do nothing but punish the VRM’s unnecessarily. So if VID was 1.3461 and vcore 1.256, then applying a negative offset of 0.1v would drop the vid to 1.2461v with a vcore of 1.256v.

Offset is not always positive and idle vid is normally higher than load vid.

With LLC, it’s trixy. When you very first add a load, Vdroop causes the voltage to drop below the level of vcore you set. You can get around that by increasing vcore, but that just adds heat. LLC adds a little voltage, as needed, to maintain the vcore value. 0% adds the least amount of voltage, 100% generally overvolts aggressively, a small amount at load, but a much larger proportion at idle. Where it’s totally unnecessary since idle is easy to maintain. Since most high OC has idle disabled, high aggressive LLC is fine, but plays havoc with idle vcore/vid numbers on mild OC with idle enabled. So for most OC, @ 50% is a good start, adjust up or down as needed. You don’t really want to add voltage anywhere more than necessary as that does nothing but jack up cpu temps.

skwok-raven

• Apr 25, 2019

• #7

Karadjgne

Titan

• Apr 25, 2019

• #8

Globespy

Honorable

• May 14, 2019

• #9

Are you happy with BIOS 3.30 with regard to overclocking?
Did you use a previous version?
Is 3.30 more stable with same OC settings?

I have the same board, delidded 8086k.
I’m on BIOS 3.10, and to preface this, I won’t likely buy another AsRock board.
They have the worst customer service, they don’t answer in their own forums and even sub forums like here and tweaktowns, they ignore their customers.
Their adaptive voltage is absolute trash when you are looking to push a CPU to it’s max (delid etc), and when you are pushing 5.3-5.4Ghz (what I’m running on the 8086K, all cores, no AVX offset), so fixed LLC1 is really the only way to get stable, at least on BIOS 3.10.
I use small 40mm fans to actively cool the VRM/MOSFET’s, which is important when you water cool, you have Noctua air cooler so you are good

That being said, there is something you might want to look at in your OC quest.
Using HWInfo64 you will see that this board has 2 entries (in sensors) for Renesas ISL69138 controller.

One of these sensors is wrong, you can see that it’s wrong, so hide it.
You can easily tell which one is correct as the first value ‘VR Loop1’ will correspond to a CPU Value ‘VR VCC Temperature(SVID)’ — this is essentially the VRM/MOSFET temperature sensors.
If you have a ‘fixed’ vcore in BIOS, the value below ‘VR Loop 1’, a value named ‘VR VOUT’ will be very close to the ‘vCore’ setting.

This ‘VR VOUT’ value is essentially a more accurate reading of the real voltage that the core is requesting from the VRM/MOSFET’s — there’s a lovely technical reason for this which involves resistance in circuitry that means ‘vCore’ is not the most accurate reading, and that’s really all you need to know.
The author of HWInfo and AsRock have confirmed this sensor is indeed correct and should be trusted as a more accurate reading of core voltage.

As other’s have pointed out (kinda in a roundabout way), if we are looking at fixed vCore, due to vdroop it’s impossible to have the same fixed idle voltage as under load voltage.
And the higher the OC, the more voltage you need to push.
With Fixed vCore and LLC1, you will typically see idle voltage about 30mv higher than full load, such as stress test with Realbench (also my favorite).
So let’s say my idle vCore at 5.3Ghz is 1.415v, under load the vCore value in HWInfo will pretty much stay the same, with occasional dips to 1.406v.
BUT, the VR VOUT value will be in the 1.386v area, which shows just how much variance there can be, and why even the tightest LLC on this board is still trash.

High voltage at idle is NOT dangerous in terms of killing your CPU — within reason of course. If you have nice cooling, you can sit at 1.45v at idle, with 1.41-1.42 under full load.
High idle voltage will barely draw any current (amps) or power (watts) — Coffee Lake processors are good for 138A/180W continuous, which even under stress testing conditions is very unlikely. You might see spikes, but not constant.

On the other hand, what can damage or degrade a CPU is High Voltage combined with High Current and High Power,.
This is why I’ve always used fixed voltages, and always turn off all C-States, Speedstep(EIST)/Speedshift — my PC’s are primarily for high performance gaming, so I could care less about saving a few dollars a year, and quite frankly the environment has WAYYY bigger issues than me drawing a few more amps per month than another PC with max power saving settings.
There’s many who have the opinion that higher idle voltages kill CPU’s, but if you have good cooling and keep those temps in check (I’m at max 72C after 4 hours Realbench) then you will replace your PC long before your CPU degrades.
Now, if you are running vCore at 1.5v, then you will likely see degradation during the life of the PC, but even then it’s still not a fixed science.
Stay under 1.45v idle and good cooling and if you replace your PC every 3-5 years you will most likely have zero issues.
I have never had a CPU die on me, 30 years of building PC’s — and I’m not alone

So, this may help you feel a little more comfortable about raising the ‘vcore’ value in BIOS, because your under load value on this board is going to be quite a bit lower, and that’s the one you really need to care about.

BTW — would love to hear if you like the new BIOS better.
I’m thinking of going back to 1.20 before all this Spectre microcode crap that has impacted performance, but most likely tossing this board in the trash.

Vr vcc temperature svid что это

Приветствую друзья. Поговорим немного о температуре материнской плате, а точнее о температуре VRM, ведь сама материнка греться не может — только компоненты на ней (чипы).

Максимальная температура VRM материнской платы

Температура VRM при обычной работе ПК нежелательно чтобы повышалась более чем на 50 градусов.

Максимально допустимая температура — 100 градусов, после которой могут быть необратимые последствия. Но и 100 градусов при продолжительной работе — тоже приведут к проблеме.

В играх она может достигать 70, если выше — то уже плохо, во-первых выше 90 может быть деградация не самого качественного текстолита, выше 100 — могут плавиться медные дорожки, но это еще зависит от платы. В любом случае высокая температура — зло.

Посмотреть температуру VRM лучше всего в программе AIDA64:

Но AIDA64 может и не показывать датчик VRM — это еще зависит от самой материнской платы. Возможно если нет датчика, то стоит обратить внимание на температуру системной платы (а ее также можно посмотреть в BIOS).

В основном греются только мосфеты, и при это могут греться так, что прикоснуться нельзя. В таком случае — нужен обдув, иначе это просто уменьшит срок службы платы.

VRM — что это?

Это несколько модулей, которые обеспечивают преобразование 12 вольт от блока питания в куда меньшее напряжение, которое нужно процессору.

Кстати процессору нужно всего 1.5 вольт, но чтобы они были стабильные, без скачков и перепадов.

VRM располагается слева от сокета (или над ним).

Вообще VRM — важная вещь, эта система питает процессор, обеспечивает его постоянным током, который должен быть качественным. И в принципе все хорошо — простые процессоры, офисные, которые имеют 2 или 4 ядра — особо нетребовательные. Но если брать топовый процессор, то если его установить на плату со слабым VRM — при максимальных нагрузках могут быть вылеты, выключения ПК.

Вообще VRM — это не одно какое-то устройство, а несколько:

1. ШИМ-контроллер или PWM-контроллер (салатовый на картинке).
2. Мосфеты (оранжевые). Именно они кстати греются прилично, если ставить топовый проц, то на них обязательно должен быть радиатор.
3. Дроссели (красный).
4. Конденсаторы (синий).

Пример платы, на которую можно ставить проц среднего уровня или офисный, но топовый — не стоит. Система VRM может и вытянет, но все равно — не стоит, нет радиаторов, вообще компонентов мало, плата вряд ли рассчитана на топовые процы и уж тем более на разгон.

Вот пример, когда элементы VRM имеют качественное охлаждение + радиатор есть на чипсете:

Разумеется такие платы стоят дороже, но если вы собираетесь разгонять процессор — то не стоит жалеть денег на плату. Даже если вы будете ставить топовый многоядерный проц, то ставить его на дешевую плату, которая даже в характеристиках поддерживает модель проца — поверьте, не стоит.

Работа ПК при высокой температуре

1. ПК может работать, но сколько — неизвестно. Это пожалуй единственная причина, по которой стоит добиваться снижения температуры.
2. Материнская плата, процессор, сокет, чипы на плате — все это проходит проверку при высоких температурах. Но это не значит что они смогут работать постоянно так.
3. Материнка может иметь радиатор над мосфетами, над чипсетом. Под радиатором не сразу устройство, а сперва идет термоинтерфейс, как и под крышкой процессора. Термоинтерфейс — это или специальная прокладка или специальная паста, которая проводит тепло. При постоянной высокой температура свойства термоинтерфейса ухудшаются и температура еще больше увеличивается, что только усугубляет ситуацию.
4. Например раньше на материнских платах были не твердотельные конденсаторы, а электролитические. И они были в том числе возле процессора. Часто они вздувались от постоянной высокой температуры и выходили из строя, так как теряли свои свойства (емкость кажется). Но что самое интересное — они могли даже взрываться. А если бы их постоянно обдувал специальный вентилятор — то все было бы нормально. PS: хотя электролитические конденсаторы потом можно было заменить в мастерской.
5. При постоянной высокой температуре может деградировать чип, то есть именно деградировать, когда его уже потом не спасти.

Заключение

В основном конечно главное мы выяснили:

1. Максимальная температура VRM — 100 градусов.
2. Максимально допустимая для работы — 70-80, но желательно непродолжительно.
3. Идеальная температура — не выше 50.

Вообще, если вам ваш ПК дорог, то стоит вручную установить обдув VRM (между гнездом процессора и портами платы). На самом деле это не сложно, а снизить температуру и увеличить срок службы материнки — вполне возможно.

Надеюсь информация оказалась полезной, удачи и добра, до новых встреч друзья!

Thread: G751jy Temperature almost the same after changing thermal paste

In the second video, before cleaning and repasting, your CPU was throttling because of CPU temps. Intel CPU starts throttling at 93-94 �C, and this kind of throttling reduces clock speeds just a little bit, like we can see in the second video. CPU clocks stay in the 3.1 — 3.3 GHz range, instead of 3.4 GHz (this is the turbo clock with all 4 cores active).

In the first video, after repasting, CPU temps stay in the low 90s, that is quite high but not enough to start CPU thermal throttling.
Now your throttling is much more aggressive, falling down from 3.4 GHz turbo clock to 2.6 GHz that is the base clock for the 4720HQ: this is the thermal VR throttling. You can see it in HWiNFO stats, at IA: VR Thermal Alert, and in your screenshot it’s marked as YES.
You should see also an entry under CPU [#0]: Intel Core i7-4720HQ: Enhanced called VR VCC Temperature (SVID). If you can’t see it, just put under load your CPU and then restore original order in HWiNFO, that temp sensor doesn’t work if it’s cold and show 11 �C or less (grayed out).

If you will monitor that sensor when you play games, you will see it goes up to 96 �C and then your CPU will start to throttle at base clock (2.6 GHz).

The paradox is that before repasting your CPU was thermal throttling because of CPU temp, and that was a "soft" throttling, cutting down just 200-300 MHz to keep CPU in the low 90s. Now, after repasting, your CPU is a bit cooler, it doesn’t reach throttling temperature, but this allows the voltage regulator to run hotter and trigger another throttling system, that is more aggressive than the previous one.

Bad news n� 1: repasting has worked, but maybe not enough. Low 90s are still quite high temps for stock clock and voltages, with a fresh applied thermal paste and a clean laptop.
What’s the temperature inside your room? I’d try to use a custom fan profile, to let them spin a bit faster. High 80s, with a demanding CPU game like Battlefield is already a quite good result in the middle of the summer.

Bad news n� 2: CPU VRs are not cooled, they are abandoned to their heat. I put some little heatsink over them just to have a sort of passive cooling, they help but don’t work miracles.
Also in this case, if the fans spin a little faster, they should create more airflow in the chassis, that "could" cool VRs a little better. But without heatsink and active cooling, this is a very minor effect.
Anyway it’s strange that you hit VR thermal at 40-45 W of CPU power, IIRC even with stock speeds I experienced this at higher power consumption (at least 60 W); but if your room temp is around 28-30 �C this can be possible (I simply don’t play games/use intensive apps in summer lol).

You can also try to disable HyperThreading, if you don’t use your laptop for rendering/encoding, heavy multitasking. From my experience, many games (even recent ones) will run better with HT off, and CPU stay cooler, with less power draw.
If you can’t disable it through Windows or CPU affinity, as last resort I would try to set a limit on CPU multiplier, something like 3.1 — 3.2 GHz through XTU. 200-300 MHz should not affect your gaming performance, but can be enough to not suffer from aggressive throttling, that can cause FPS drops or inconsistency.

HWinfo VR VCC TEMPERATURE

Hello. VR VCC Temp. (SVID) Under load and without it, the temperature shows 79-85, constantly. Is this a sensor bug? BIOS is default.